Traditional Balsamic Vinegar has been produced in Modena and Reggio Emilia, Italy since the Middle Ages. For centuries it was privately made for family use only. The wooden barrels used to age the balsamic vinegar were passed down from one generation to the next and was often part of a bride’s dowry. Today, balsamic vinegar can be found in almost every supermarket. Unfortunately, along with its surge in popularity came a variety of quality and what you often see today lining the shelves is not Traditional Balsamic Vinegar (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale) but an industrial version called Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (Aceto Balsamico di Modena) or simply an imitation. Curious to understand the differences, I headed to Acetaia Malpighi, one of the oldest Traditional Balsamic Vinegar producers in Modena, Italy to find out.
The Malpighi family has been producing the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena since 1850. Today products are exported throughout the world and the Malpighi brand is recognized internationally for being a leader in high quality Made in Italy products. Over 22,000 people each year make their way through Acetaia Malpighi’s doors to participate in free tours and tastings. As President Massimo Malpighi told me in our interview, “The best way for consumers to understand the difference between Traditional Balsamic Vinegar and other products you find in the market, is to have them taste our products. After which, they become our biggest promoters as they can immediately understand the difference in flavor and quality.”
Producers who make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar are passionate people. Whereas industrial producers bottle gallons of runny liquid in a short period of time, it takes Acetaia Malpighi 198 pounds (90 kilos) of grapes and 25 years of aging just to produce 7 (100ml) bottles.
5 elements are required to produce Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena:
1. Microclimate — Modena has a unique climate that is critical to producing excellent Traditional Balsamic Vinegar (cold/humid in the winter, hot/humid in the summer).
2. Grapes— The grapes must come from vines traditionally cultivated in the province of Modena.
3) Barrels — 5 types of wood must be used: oak, mulberry, chestnut, cherry and juniper.
4) Consortium — Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena must adhere to the traditional means of production that is strictly controlled by the consortium and approved only after rigorous examination of quality. Since imitators don’t abide by these regulations, the consortium is an imperative filter to protect the reputation and value of authentic balsamic vinegars.
5) Agingprocess — The vinegar must be aged for minimum of 12 years.
The actual production of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is quite simple. Here is a quick overview. The grapes used must originate from varieties traditionally cultivated in the province of Modena. They are crushed, pressed then slowly cooked over a fire for 24-48 hours to produce must (unfermented juice). After resting and undergoing an sugar and acidic fermentation, the must is then decanted and transferred through a battery of barrels of different sizes and wood types that are stored in an area that ensures natural thermal ranges and aeration. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar must be aged for a minimum of 12 years.
Types of Balsamic Vinegar
Each grade of balsamic vinegar has its function, we can define it as being similar to wine. You wouldn’t want to waste a $200 bottle on a salad dressing or drizzle a $2 bottle on top of aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.
Here are the four main classifications of balsamic vinegars:
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar: Considered the best for its rich flavor. The main characteristics are: special onion shaped bottle with a Consorzio label, brown-black in color, a tart and sweet flavor, and thick when poured from the bottle. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is made only from grape must. Prices range from around $60 to $500.
12 years: suitable on eggs, first courses, red meat, fish and crustaceans.
25 years: perfect for cheese, desserts, ice cream, fresh fruits or as a after dinner digestive aid.
25 + years: enjoyed by tasting a few drops on a little porcelain spoon.
Aceto Balsamico Condimento: These balsamic vinegars follow almost the same traditional methods as the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar but varies on one of the processes—e.g., the producer is located outside of Modena or Reggio Emilia, or three types of woods are used instead of five, or the aging period is less than 12 years. Prices start from around $25. Perfect for everyday use on salads, breads, fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, in vinaigrettes or marinades. Should be added at the end of cooking.
Aceto Balsamico di Modena: These are industrial grade balsamic vinegars that are mass produced and aged for a short period of time, usually in metal vats with wood chips to add flavor. Commercial balsamic vinegars are usually a blend of cooked grape must, wine vinegar, sulphites and sometimes sugar and caramel coloring. If you are to buy this variety, I recommend searching only those that contain grape must and vinegar in the ingredients list. Prices typically range from $5 to $25. Suitable for salad dressings and sauces.
Balsamic Vinegar Imitations: These balsamic vinegars cannot bear the name Modena on the label, but their similar looking packaging may just trick you to believing they are of high quality. You can spot the difference simply by looking at the list of ingredients. Traditional Balsamic Vinegars are made only with grape must and the industrial varieties are made with grape must and vinegar; imitation balsamic vinegars are not made with grape must but utilize merely vinegar, sugar, caramel coloring and other artificial flavoring. Prices can go for $2 all the way to a $10, a deceptive amount for its poor quality. I try to avoid products with artificial ingredients, and therefore don’t recommend these for any kind of food.
For every foodie, I definitely recommend a tour through the region of Emilia Romagna, the so called “food valley” where you can taste firsthand some of Italy’s most famous DOP products, like: Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and of course, stop by for a pleasant and informative tour at Acetaia Malpighito taste their Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena and other delicious products.
Note: This post is not sponsored or paid by Acetaia Malpighi. I only promote companies who products I like and think you will enjoy. Acetaia Malpighi was kind to give me some samples of their high quality products, which I look forward to using in future recipes.
I’ve been to many great restaurants in Italy, but few have captured my heart like La Berlera in Riva del Garda. La Berlera offers more than just exceptional food, it provides a unique dining experience that will be etched in your memory forever thanks to the uniqueness of its location :: la posizione, selection of ingredients, creative dishes, attention to detail and warm service.
So what makes La Berlera’s location stand out among others? To begin, the restaurant is located inside of a boulder that was carved out in 1794. The jutting structure attached to the boulder resembles a small castle tower all surrounded by mountains and rolling vineyards.
Lining the edge of the property is a vegetable garden :: orto with various herbs that are used to create interesting flavor combinations like vanilla and rosemary gelato and bay leaf sorbet, just to name a few. Besides some varieties of beef, all of the ingredients used at La Berlera are KM 0 (kilometer 0), meaning that they are purchased locally in order to support local farmers and vendors.
In addition, Owner and Chef, Gianluca Guglielmi, advocates the consumption of seasonal products :: prodotti di stagione. The menu is therefore changed periodically to implement only the freshest and tastiest in-season ingredients.
Although you are dining in a slightly cool damp cave :: grotta, the interior decorating and attention to details give you the feeling of home: there are wooden tables, chairs with bright colored seat cushions, bowls full of fruit, plants and flowers and not to be missed are the book shelves that line the walls. Also on display is a metal storage rack lined with homemade canned goods, just like my mom’s in her root cellar.
With decades of experience in restaurant ownership and consulting, the thing I like most about Chef Guglielmi’s recipes is that each dish has a variety of textures to excite the palate :: palato: from creamy to crunchy, rich to refreshing, the taste buds are led through a maze of twists and turns in consistencies and flavors along the way.
I have mentioned in previous posts that Mr. Italicano and I aren’t big of fans of dessert. I wish I would have taken pictures of the plate after we devoured :: divorato every morsel on this dessert platter.
As you can see from the photo, we weren’t just eating any ol’dessert. What we had before us was gorgeous food art. I felt guilty destroying the masterpiece :: capolavoro before me, but it looked just too good to resist!
What I love about family-run businesses, is that you typically get fantastic service and great hospitality :: ospitalità. At La Berlera, husband, wife, and son worked seamlessly together to make each customer’s dining experience unique and memorable.
So, if you are planning a trip to Italy, definitely put Riva del Garda on your list of places to visit. It is just off the beaten path where you will escape the swarms of tourists and can relish :: assaporare a magical moment enjoying views of a mountain lake, hillsides lined with wine yards and olive groves and enjoy a unique dining experience at La Berlera.
Note: This post is not sponsored or paid by Riva del Garda tourism or La Berlera restaurant. I just thought you would be interested in discovering one of my favorite locations and restaurants here in Italy.
If you work in the food and beverage business, or are just a plain foodie or wine connoisseur, there are two principal Italian trade shows :: fiere that you won’t want to miss: Vinitaly and Cibus. Vinitaly is focused on the wine sector while Cibus is dedicated to food and beverage. This year’s exhibitions have already passed, but mark your calendar for next year as these expos are always filled with innovating food and wine concepts.
Celebrating :: festeggiando over 100 years of production, Lini 910 has perfected the art of making lambrusco and is known throughout the world for its Classic Method. With a sleek and modern image, Lini 910 bundles together a century of tradition and experience with a stylish and captivating look.
Grapes picked by hand and wine made with passion :: passione, at Lusvardi I found my favorite Brut Rose sparkling wine. Delicate notes of berries and green apple blend harmoniously together making this wine the ultimate summer drink.
Not only are Ceci’s wines and beers some of the best in Italy, their marketing initiative is also creative and innovative. Some of my favorite bottle designs were: a New York skyline with led lights that illuminate the bottle, a plaid printed bottle with a strap for carrying, chalk board and whiteboard bottles both equipped with their essential materials (chalk and eraser, whiteboard pen and cloth). Ceci is all about offering quality products with style :: stile.
While some high quality wineries get stuffy with their labels :: etichette, Buglioni, instead, has a little fun: Bugiardo (liar), Ruffiano (suck-up), Clandestino (stowaway), Monello (rascal), Balordo (fool) and Vigliacco (coward) are some of their most creative and unusual wine names I’ve yet to come across. Then of course they also have the classics like Valpolicella and Amarone. Cuddling your taste buds with deep warm flavors, Bulioni’s Amarone wine has become my new found love. Full in body and flavor, it is one wine you will not forget that leaves each taste bud enamored and in love.
I first foundLoison’spastries at Vinitaly, they had a small little booth where they were handing out samples of Panettone, a traditional Christmas Italian sweet and candied fruit filled bread. It was love at first bite of the soft, moist sweet bread lined with a layer of cream. The large and refined :: raffinati stand at Cibus also presented a variety of other sweets in gorgeous and unique packaging. Entering the stand felt like walking into an old Victorian house for tea and sweets. I know where I’ll be ordering my Christmas presents from next year.
With simple and eye catching packaging paired with a variety of unique products like flavored salts and oils, deep red tomato sauces and a wide range of jarred vegetables in olive oil, there was no question about me stopping in to take a peek at the Casina Rossa stand. While talking to the owner, I even had the opportunity to see photos of the preparation of the jarred vegetables in olive oil, all of which are filled by hand :: a mano. In the states, you can find a variety of Casina Rossa products in William Sonoma stores.
Pandolia is Evvio’s delicious artisanal panettone bread that is made with farm selected extra virgin olive oil, making it a healthy alternative to the traditional recipe. Pandolia is prepared with just a few and simple ingredients and does not contain aromas or preservatives. Mother yeast is utilized and the dough goes through a 32 hour levitation process. Evvio’s mission is to promote handmade, high quality and healthy foods. I’m all in. I’ve been snacking on two kinds of Pandolia since coming back from Cibus: wholemeal raisin and candied orange peel as well as cranberry and goji berries. Both are a perfect accompaniment to a hot cup of coffee in the morning :: mattina.
I really enjoyed talking to one of the owners in this family-run business. You can tell when someone has heart and soul :: anima for their activity when you hear them passionately talk about their products. After tasting Agnoni’s artisanal marinated artichokes, sun-dried tomato patè and green olive patè, I came to the conclusion that it must not be hard to speak animately about their products as each one was absolutely exquisite. Besides their products in extra virgin olive oil, they also have a wide rande of handmade products which are all produced at their commercial farm.
What I love about Galvanina products is that they are made without colorants and preservatives :: conservanti, unlike many other beverage brands in the market today. Instead, Galvanina uses: cane sugar to sweeten their drinks, fresh mineral water from the Galvanina spring, and they add carbon dioxide, a natural element used to create their sparkling line of beverages. In addition to their sparkling drinks, their range of 100% organic fruit juices beats out all their competitors.
I was on the brink of giving up on drinking beer in Italy and just sticking to wine. After sampling many different kinds, nothing could compare to the selection of original crafted flavors found in the Pacific North West. That was until I had the opportunity to stop by the Amarcord stand. With one sip :: sorso of their special artisanal beer called “Bruna”, I finally tasted home. It was quite a heavenly moment to finally find a beer of excellence.
Foreigners usually hear of tiramisù or pannacotta as traditional Italian desserts, yet, the zuppa inglese, another classic dessert, often flies under the radar. What is it and how is it prepared? Well, I decided to head to the restaurant Rosa dei Venti to find out.
“Whereas many restaurants use ready-made products, we make everything by hand using the highest quality ingredients. This is the trick to making a great zuppa inglese,” explained Angela Pidalà, cook and co-owner with her husband Vincenzo.
Zuppa inglese, or “English soup” is a Italian custard-based dessert typical in the Emilia Romagna region and apparently has been around since the 16th century, and possibly even longer.
To make this beloved dessert, the first thing to do is to bring skim milk to a boil then add the zest of one organic lemon and some vanillin, vanilla extract or vanilla bean. While the milk boils, the custard needs to be made. Only the freshest yolks should be used.
Next, sugar and milk are added.
Followed by sifted flour to produce a bright yellow mixture. Sifting the flour is very important to avoid lumps.
The warm milk is added to the egg mixture and stirred off of the stove until combined then placed back on the stove and stirred constantly until brought to a boil. At this point the custard should be dense, the foam should be gone and the mixture should be pale yellow.
The custard is then removed from the heat to cool and the Savoiardi cookies are cut into three lengthwise pieces, dipped in Alchermes, a scarlet colored Italian liqueur, and placed in individual cups. You could also line the bottom of a bowl if you want to serve it family style.
The custard is spooned into each cup, then cocoa is sifted into the remaining custard and a chocolate layer is added.
After which the sides of the cookies are folded down and the dessert is ready to be eaten or stored in the refrigerator.
And, there you have it: all you need to know on making authentic Italian zuppa inglese. If you’re in Italy and near Reggio Emilia, head to Rosa dei Venti to try this classic dessert. If you’re located far away, you can make this similar zuppa inglese recipe from Jul’s Kitchen, another bilingual food blog written by an Italian woman.
I love red wine :: vino rosso. I adore the way the robust flavors cuddle my taste buds and warm me up like a roaring fire. I’ve always been unenthusiastic about white wines and Proseccos, a sparkling Italian wine. Their fresh taste just doesn’t leave me satisfied. There has to be a reason, though, that so many people appreciate white wines, and Italian Proseccos, in particular. That is why I decided to head to the Prosecco wine country in Veneto, Italy for the weekend to find out. Amidst the rolling hills covered with knotted vineyards, not only did I find the answer I was looking for, but also five enchanting surprises along the way.
The areas of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano produce the most prestigious Proseccos with the DOCGseal, or “controlled designation of origin guaranteed,” which demonstrates that the product has been produced within a specified region using traditional methods. The difference between DOC and DOCG seals is that DOCG wines are analyzed and tasted by government licensed personnel before bottling. All these steps help consumers choose a good quality Prosecco wine among the various imitations :: imitazioni. This is where I failed in the past. I bought Prosecco wines that were mass produced with machines and weren’t cultivated in the specified terrene. Contrary to other areas in Veneto, the Valdobbiadene and Conegliano areas have two main differences: they are hilly and thusly the grapes must be picked by hand and the flavor of the grapes are a result of the microclimate’s affect on the ground and air; not to mention that typically these areas house smaller wineries where passion and soul are put into producing a good bottle of wine, rather than just a money making agenda as the core business goal.
MALIBRÀN WINERY
Among the different wineries that we visited, Mr. Italicano and I agree that Malibràn is among the best and a good testament of a winery with generations of accumulated experience that permits them to make superior Proseccos.
Between bubbling sips :: sorse of Prosecco while listening to Maurizio Favrel explain the history of his family owned business, my view about Prosecco being an unsatisfying wine vanished while crisp aromas of white peaches, apricots, pears and apples conquered my palate.
Among the different varieties of Proseccos, I was greatly impressed by Malibràn’s “Sottoriva Sur Lie Col Fondo Senza Solfiti” which is 100% natural and contains no sulfites. Whereas the fermentation in most modern day Proseccos take place in large pressurized tanks, for this particular wine it takes place directly in the bottle, like the olden days. The yeast :: lievito is not removed, as done with Champagne, but is left in the bottle until the moment it is served at which point you can either pour out the wine, leaving the sediments resting at the bottom, or shake it up to taste the authentic terroir.
VILLA MARCELLO MARINELLI
Although Mr. Italicano and I came to the Valdobbiadene area to experience the Proseccos, we also received a lovely surprise when we arrived at our hotel, Villa Marcello Marinelli, a classic Italian villa nestled in the foothills of the Alps in Cison di Valmarino.
Built in the 1500’s and decorated in Venetian decor, our stay at the Villa Marcello Marinelli brought us back in time and spirit where we passed our mornings relaxing and reading in the communal living room and one evening in the dining hall surrounded by 17th century frescos while we enjoyed traditional homemade Venetian dishes. Family owned and managed, we received exceptional hospitality :: ospitalità that turned our weekend into an unforgettable stay, one which I hope to repeat again someday. Only 50 minutes from Venice, Villa Marcello Marinelli is a perfect side trip for those who want a unique Italian countryside experience.
CASTEL BRANDO
A five minute walk from the villa you will find yourself at a panoramicfunicular ::funicolare that takes you up to Castel Brando, an immense medieval castle now restored and home to a hotel, spa, theater, bar and restaurant.
Mr. Italicano and I enjoyed a dirty martini and live jazz music one night and wood fired kamut pizzas and lemon sorbets the other. In the expansive courtyard near the castle’s stone walls which overlooks the sparkling lights of the town below, you’ll find the perfect romantic spot to steal a kiss.
COUNTRYSIDE
Between the Prosecco tasting and castle touring, you will not want to miss roaming around the countryside, both by foot and by car. Just minutes from Villa Marcello Marinelli, there is a trail :: un sentiero that takes you alongside a stream, past two old mills and through a forest.
Throughout our walk there were signs with inspirational quotes to give you a little food for thought as you soak in the nature. My favorite was:
“Today is the best day to love, to grow, to act and above all else, to live.” Dalai Lama
In a 20 minute radius by car you will also find small quaint towns, rolling vineyards and serene lakes.
VINEYARD PICNIC
During your countryside tour, stop by the “Osteria senza Oste” which translates to “Inn without an Innkeeper” for a picnic lunch nestled between rolling vineyards creating a truly magical panorama.
Here you will find a tiny rural house with a stall housing donkeys and a simple room where you can choose among the different bottles of Prosecco, salame, cheeses and bread. Pick what you want then leave a donation :: donazione for what you eat.
Outside there are a few tables to enjoy your simple meal, take in the view, smell the fresh air and appreciate the silence. Mr. Italicano and I spent our Easter lunch here. Often times the more simple the setting and food, the more memorable the experience. Don’t you agree?
Today is a great day, a great few weeks actually. First I met Oscar Farinetti, the owner of Eataly, and now my first magazine interview was published this morning on Fine Dining Lovers! (The article is in Italian but there are always online translation sites for those who are curious).
It’s not every day that I see my own face appear on one of my favorite food magazines next to pictures of world renowned chefs and articles about the latest trends, recipes and gastronomical events. There is also a separate International Fine Dining Lovers websitefor all you English speaking foodies. It’s a must read.
I feel so grateful for this opportunity, especially since italicana kitchen launched just a mere 3 months ago. A big thank you to all of you readers who follow and comment on my blog, facebook, pinterest and twitter pages! Without all of you, my blog wouldn’t exist!
The Malpighi family has been producing the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena since 1850. Today products are exported throughout the world and the Malpighi brand is recognized internationally for being a leader in high quality Made in Italy products. Over 22,000 people each year make their way through Acetaia Malpighi’s doors to participate in free tours and tastings. As President Massimo Malpighi told me in our interview, “The best way for consumers to understand the difference between Traditional Balsamic Vinegar and other products you find in the market, is to have them taste our products. After which, they become our biggest promoters as they can immediately understand the difference in flavor and quality.” 
Producers who make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar are passionate people. Whereas industrial producers bottle gallons of runny liquid in a short period of time, it takes Acetaia Malpighi 198 pounds (90 kilos) of grapes and 25 years of aging just to produce 7 (100ml) bottles.
The actual production of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is quite simple. Here is a quick overview. The grapes used must originate from varieties traditionally cultivated in the province of Modena. They are crushed, pressed then slowly cooked over a fire for 24-48 hours to produce must (unfermented juice). After resting and undergoing an sugar and acidic fermentation, the must is then decanted and transferred through a battery of barrels of different sizes and wood types that are stored in an area that ensures natural thermal ranges and aeration. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar must be aged for a minimum of 12 years. 
