Don’t get me wrong, Rome, Florence and Venice are three cities not to be missed on a first time trip :: viaggio to Italy. Yet, for returning tourists or nature lovers, I recommend a peaceful getaway to the region of Umbria, nicknamed the “green heart of Italy” for it’s rich vegetation.
Umbria’s landscape consists of endless rolling hills, forests, meadows, valleys and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see with castles, borghi and medieval farm houses scattered along the way. Many of these farm houses and stables have been been restored and converted into “agriturismi” or farm vacations. Mr. Italicano and I had the opportunity to spend a relaxing weekend at the lovely Agriturismo L’Elmo which is found in the peaceful countryside only 15 miles from the medieval town of Orvieto.
Like everything in Italy, it all starts with a story. In 1788 the farm, stables and servant houses for the prince of the area was built using local materials like stones, sand, and oak trees. The property belonged to the Ruspoli family until the late 1970’s when the Agneni family acquired it, introducing the cultivation of organic hazelnuts ::noccioli bio. Mr. Italicano and I had never seen hazelnut trees up close before. Come to find out, prestige truffles spontaneously grow near the trunks of the trees which are often used in the agriturismo’s dinner menus. Yes, please!
Throughout the years the farmhouse and stable :: stalla were restored and created into an agriturismo which opened its doors in 2000. The rustic quaint room that we stayed was absolutely delightful. Country sleeping is so peaceful. There was no noise of cars passing by, just the nighttime sounds through the open window: the chirping of the crickets and rustle of the wind through the nearby trees that rocked us to sleep.
I had strolled around the agriturismo, but hadn’t appreciated the well maintained gardens until Marina gave me a private tour of her family property pointing out the various plants, flowers, trees and shrubs ::cespugli. When we stayed, there still wasn’t any fruit so I hadn’t realized that many of the trees were fruit trees like kiwis, cherries and walnuts or that the shrub I had passed was really a laurel where she got her bay leafs for cooking. And, how did I not see the large lavender plants that lined the walkway? There was so much for me to discover thanks to Marina.
Shortly after, Marina showed me her large organic vegetable garden :: orto bio where in the summer she grows over seven varieties of tomatoes, various types of salads, celery, peppers, artichokes and cucumbers, just to name a few. In the winter, you’ll find broccoli Romanesco, brussel sprouts, cime di rapa and other winter vegetables. Breakfast and dinners are prepared by Marina ultilizing these organic fruit and vegetables, as well as sheep and chickens raised on the farm. You’ll also find organic products produced by Argriturismo L’Elmo, like extra virgin olive oil, hazelnut spreads and jams. If you are looking for a true farm to table experience, this is the place to go.
As for activities, you can head to nearby wineries for local wine tastings :: degustazioni di vini, make the short drive to see the beautiful town of Orvieto where there is a remarkable cathedral or simply relax poolside at the agriturismo with a good book and a glass of white wine. The views are breathtaking.
Or, if you want to do something more active, how about a guided horseback ride through the beautiful countryside? There is a stable with a variety of trained horses for beginners and experts. Mr. Italicano and I are taking horseback riding lessons in a closed ring near where we live, but it was a whole other experience to trot through the open field and dirt trails :: sentieri di terra.
We couldn’t have asked for a more relaxing weekend. If you are looking for a place to unwind and to enjoy the nature, homemade food and incredible views, I would highly suggest booking a stay at the Argiturismo L’Elmo.
I have a confession to make. Before traveling, my geographical knowledge of Italy was limited to four cities: Rome, Florence,Venice and Milan, and one region: Tuscany. I knew these cities and region thanks to Hollywood movies, fashion or art, but had no idea of the paradise :: paradiso waiting for me in other areas of Italy…like Umbria.
Umbria? Where is Umbria?, you may be asking yourself. It is a region in central Italy bordered by Tuscany to the west, Marche to the East and Lazio to the South. Still to this day, the most famous city, Assisi, often times gets more press then the actual region of Umbria as a whole, which has countless historic sites, great gastronomy and wine and infinite options for nature lovers.
I discovered thiscuore verde d’italia, or “green heart of Italy” as it’s often called, last week when I was invited by La Strada dei Vini del Cantico and Terre dei Bulgarelli, along with six other wine/food/travel bloggers on an educational tour based on sustainable tourism and food and wine.
Photo Credit: Giusi Carai
We were picked up at the train stations in electric cars from Umbria Green Card.I’ve never been in an electric car :: macchina electric, but I’ve always appreciated the idea of traveling without polluting the air. The first thing I noticed when we took off was the silence. In the backseat I lost myself in a trance watching the forests, valleys, rolling hills, meadows, vineyards and castles pass me by. The silence made everything much more intense and all of the vibrant colors melded together like a Claude Monet painting.
Just as the panorama flew by while driving in the car, our weekend as well passed in a hurry. What is the phrase? Oh, yes. “Time flies when you are having fun.” So true. Yet, the magic thing about traveling is that you can always bring with you the memorable moments and emotions you experienced. I will always remember my first sip of Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG del 2007 that was tannic and intense with a rich bouquet of red fruits, cinnamon and soil. I won’t ever forget our trip in an electric jeep on a day that was almost 80°F; sunshine kissed our faces as we drove through the vineyards and olive groves :: oliveti that were over 400 years old! The first bite of “scafata”, a traditional stew made with fava beans, left such an impression that I couldn’t help but make the recipe when I returned. Then, of course, there were all the wonderful conversations with the other bloggers and event organizers who I connected with and shared the same thoughts and values.
Exploring the lands, getting to know the locals, discovering their traditions and history :: storia and enjoying yourself during every moment is what traveling is all about. Umbria left me with great emotions and I invite you to go there to understand why!
Here’s a few websites that can help you organize your next trip to Umbria and a few places not to miss!
Highlight: Fantastic farm-to-table food or as they say in Italy “Kilometer 0.” A typical dish from Umbria that is not to be missed is “La Scafata” made with fava beans.
Highlight: Electric jeep tour through the vineyards and olive groves with a wine and olive oil tasting on their eco-friendly terrace, which is made from recycled woods and unused corks.
Highlight: Their “Vero Amore Sangiovese Passito”, or “True Love Sangiovese Passito”, which is a sweet wine made from Sangiovese grapes and is perfect to pair with chocolate or other desserts.
Highlight: The tour in the vineyard and winery with a detailed description of their sustainable practices. Not to miss: a bottle of their “Freccia degli Scacchi”.
Umbria’s landscape consists of endless rolling hills, forests, meadows, valleys and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see with castles, borghi and medieval farm houses scattered along the way. Many of these farm houses and stables have been been restored and converted into “agriturismi” or farm vacations. Mr. Italicano and I had the opportunity to spend a relaxing weekend at the lovely Agriturismo L’Elmo which is found in the peaceful countryside only 15 miles from the medieval town of Orvieto.
Like everything in Italy, it all starts with a story. In 1788 the farm, stables and servant houses for the prince of the area was built using local materials like stones, sand, and oak trees. The property belonged to the Ruspoli family until the late 1970’s when the Agneni family acquired it, introducing the cultivation of organic hazelnuts :: noccioli bio. Mr. Italicano and I had never seen hazelnut trees up close before. Come to find out, prestige truffles spontaneously grow near the trunks of the trees which are often used in the agriturismo’s dinner menus. Yes, please!
Throughout the years the farmhouse and stable :: stalla were restored and created into an agriturismo which opened its doors in 2000. The rustic quaint room that we stayed was absolutely delightful. Country sleeping is so peaceful. There was no noise of cars passing by, just the nighttime sounds through the open window: the chirping of the crickets and rustle of the wind through the nearby trees that rocked us to sleep.
I had strolled around the agriturismo, but hadn’t appreciated the well maintained gardens until Marina gave me a private tour of her family property pointing out the various plants, flowers, trees and shrubs :: cespugli. When we stayed, there still wasn’t any fruit so I hadn’t realized that many of the trees were fruit trees like kiwis, cherries and walnuts or that the shrub I had passed was really a laurel where she got her bay leafs for cooking. And, how did I not see the large lavender plants that lined the walkway? There was so much for me to discover thanks to Marina.
Shortly after, Marina showed me her large organic vegetable garden :: orto bio where in the summer she grows over seven varieties of tomatoes, various types of salads, celery, peppers, artichokes and cucumbers, just to name a few. In the winter, you’ll find broccoli Romanesco, brussel sprouts, cime di rapa and other winter vegetables. Breakfast and dinners are prepared by Marina ultilizing these organic fruit and vegetables, as well as sheep and chickens raised on the farm. You’ll also find organic products produced by Argriturismo L’Elmo, like extra virgin olive oil, hazelnut spreads and jams. If you are looking for a true farm to table experience, this is the place to go.
As for activities, you can head to nearby wineries for local wine tastings :: degustazioni di vini, make the short drive to see the beautiful town of Orvieto where there is a remarkable cathedral or simply relax poolside at the agriturismo with a good book and a glass of white wine. The views are breathtaking.
Or, if you want to do something more active, how about a guided horseback ride through the beautiful countryside? There is a stable with a variety of trained horses for beginners and experts. Mr. Italicano and I are taking horseback riding lessons in a closed ring near where we live, but it was a whole other experience to trot through the open field and dirt trails :: sentieri di terra. 
We couldn’t have asked for a more relaxing weekend. If you are looking for a place to unwind and to enjoy the nature, homemade food and incredible views, I would highly suggest booking a stay at the Argiturismo L’Elmo. 
